
Tetsuya’s exquisitely refined cooking
has long attracted devotees from around
the globe; indeed, more than half of
his restaurant’s bookings are made
from overseas. And although he travels
extensively, he can still usually be found,
sleeves rolled up, at the stoves in
Kent Street.
Tetsuya, in turn, has long been a devotee
of Electrolux appliances, and his private
kitchen at the restaurant is equipped with
the original Electrolux Gallery collection.
“I’ve known the company for years and
I’ve been using Electrolux equipment ever
since I started in Rozelle. In Europe it’s one
of the most popular brands for commercial
kitchens, and for the home cook it offers
the same durability, reliability and ease
of cleaning needed on a large scale in
restaurants. Induction cooking has been
around a long time, so it’s tried and tested.
It cuts down on radiant heat – which keeps
commercial kitchens cooler – so it’s perfect
for Australian conditions.”
Although Tetsuya jokingly describes himself
as the ‘gadget king’, he stresses that
success in the restaurant means being
consistent. “I need equipment that will give
me the same result each time. For example,
say we’re poaching ocean trout in herbs
and olive oil at a low temperature, we know
that every time we do this using induction
the result will be the same – perfect – which
is essential for restaurant cooking. With
induction, the heat is consistent across
the entire base of the pan. You go to
Alain Ducasse’s kitchens and he’s using
an induction wok – far more efficient and
quicker than gas!
“It’s also about cutting down the time you
spend cleaning up. If something boils over,
it’s just a matter of wiping down a surface –
which means you need fewer chemicals for
cleaning.”
Tetsuya is noticing the increasing awareness
centred on health and well-being issues
in Europe, something he feels is mirrored
in Australia.
“At the restaurant our cooking is definitely
European, with our own touches, of course,
to make it interesting. It’s Mediterranean
really – we hardly use any butter or cream;
certainly not in our savoury cooking, when
we use mostly olive oil. For us, the healthy
choice we make is in the produce. We use
organic ingredients as much as we can,
and we like to know where our produce
comes from, how it’s been reared or grown,
by producers who care” he explains.
“Everyone’s so busy nowadays that people
tend to eat out more during the week. But
I think the weekends are different, and
that the kitchen is increasingly becoming
the heart of home life, where you can
relax with family and friends. You can see
it in the way kitchen design is changing –
open-plan living rooms that centre around
the kitchen, where you can chat over a
glass of wine while you’re cooking. So
although the kitchen may only be used
a few times a week, it needs to be more
user-friendly, ergonomic, stylish and, most
importantly, easy to clean! After you’ve
been entertaining, you don’t want to
spend two hours in the kitchen cleaning
up!” he laughs.
Overall though, Tetsuya sees a more
fundamental shift, observing, “nowadays
people are definitely more educated about
food. Fifty years ago people ate to survive;
now, increasingly, people eat to enjoy.”
And those on the waiting list at Tetsuya’s
would be the first to agree...
tetsuya wakuda cooking authority
By Sally Feldman – a freelance writer
and copy editor on publications,
including The Weekend Australian’s
‘Travel and Indulgence’ section,
Luxury Travel & Style magazine, Vogue
Entertaining + Travel, and ABC’s
Delicious magazine.
Ever since Tetsuya Wakuda started cooking at his tiny restaurant in Sydney’s Rozelle in 1989,
he has been showered with accolades. Recently, his eponymous restaurant, now based in a
stunning heritage-listed house in Kent Street, Sydney, was rated ninth in a list of the world’s best
restaurants and the Best Australasian Restaurant by London’s Restaurant magazine in 2008,
and awarded three chef’s hats (the highest rating) for the 15th year running in the 2007 Sydney
Morning Herald Good Food Guide.
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